mizarchivist: (Beatrix Thumper)
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So, I got the bike washed as I noted in the earlier post. I decided it would be cool to ride out to the Militia game. And I had the power loss thing happen a few times on the way over- but I did get it there- and then again on the way home.

This bike being an '86 is no spring chicken. It's pretty basic in many ways. One thing it has is a 2-part choke: pull it all the way out to start the bike, press it in to the mid-way after you get rolling, then all the way in once the engine's warmed up. Well- I am not stalling if I have the choke all the way out. Seems bad to run it thusly, but .... well, I did get home at least. But boy am I twitchy. I am not keen on being a mechanic. (I have enough hobbies already, thanks) I'm really not keen on having a bike that is unreliable. Problematic.

On the upside, Militia shut out the NY Sharks and it was cool hanging out with [livejournal.com profile] shut_it_already , [livejournal.com profile] evila , a few of our friends and the whole team at a bar that is about 3 blocks from my first Somerville apartment.

ETA: It's late. I have stuff n' things to do tomorrow. I should go to bed, except I'm braced and tense from the ride home. I feel like I'm still on the bike, that I can feel the vibrations in my hands and I'm waiting for the bike to surge and lose power.  Not restful sleepy feelings at all.  :/
Date: 2010-05-17 01:41 pm (UTC)

From: [identity profile] bryttan.livejournal.com
So, if I understand it correctly, having the choke open runs a richer gas to the engine. Perhaps it's time to dump the gas you have, use a higher (cleaner) grade for a while, and see if that helps? (Or add a bottle of additive before you refill with unleaded next time if you don't want to change your octane?) But you know precisely how long I've been riding, so I can understand if you don't want to take this advice and just go get your carbs cleaned instead. :) :) :)
Date: 2010-05-17 02:12 pm (UTC)

From: [identity profile] bryttan.livejournal.com
Hah!

Well, obviously, you should always ride with a buddy until this gets fixed...& knowing someone to call who can tow a bike if you break down at 11pm wouldn't hurt. :-D

More seriously, if you have a flask or a metal 'water' bottle that you can donate to gasoline, I'd recommend stashing it (full) on your bike/with your gear until you stop riding around on reserve. Such a thing should be enough to get you someplace else if you actually run out of gas on a dark lonely road. (Something metal so it doesn't crush or degrade.)

Good luck with the vroom!!!
Date: 2010-05-18 10:27 am (UTC)

Fuel Stabilizer

From: [identity profile] lightniing.livejournal.com
It does sound like a FUEL and not electronic related problem. If you don't burn through the entire tank very often, such as lawn mower or not-always ridden motorcycle, may I recommend Sta-Bil as an additive (1/2 oz per 2.5 gal) because the blending components in gasoline today like MTBE and ethanol make the gasoline burn more cleanly, but the gas degrades REALLY fast - 4 to 6 weeks compared to the 6 months it would take using the gas of our youth - and you can get deposits (and water from condensation) in with the gas. Only add the Sta-Bil to very recently purchased gasoline. Since I ride motorcross and sometimes don't for 3-4 weeks in a row, I use it on each fill which extends the gasoline life and also helps it to blend any water that may creep in from condensation on a less than full tank.

The above is the simplest thing to try, no effort and less than $7.

If you get slightly ambitious, replace the fuel filter they are inexpensive if your bike has one; typically in line with the fuel petcock. If there isn't, consider adding a very small one in-line it will help to keep grit from entering your carb which sticks in the float bowl valve. There is nothing to it just stick it in the line with the arrow facing direction of flow.

You could get carb cleaner and carefully disassemble & clean it especially the float bowl. Not recommended unless you have the book for the bike, to adjust the tolerances of things like the float as you go. Said cleaning only needs to be done once if you are using a fuel stabilizer routinely.
Date: 2010-05-19 11:22 am (UTC)

Re: Fuel Stabilizer

From: [identity profile] lightniing.livejournal.com
Go the eZ route. That last part about rebuilding the carb - I'd skip it too if I were me.

No, I haven't found one iota of difference between regular, midgrade to premium, so I go with the manufacturer spec which is regular grade. The only difference supposedly is the octane, but since I don't race a Dulcati I don't feel it when I've tested the different ones. Premium doesn't make mine sputter less.

I -do- go with 'brand' (Texaco, Exxon, Mobile) rather than cheap (Hess) because with the knockoff brands I've experienced bad gas before perhaps water in the mix and engine sputtering - even in my CAR. Maybe just my luck but that was my experience (both tanks that gave me the sputtering effect were from Hess.)

Interestingly brands are all the same gasolines from the refinery to start with, and then the brands just use different combining agents 'additives'.



I hate to mention but feel I must -

If you can, don't leave the choke engaged if the engine is already hot - for the heat of that extra gasoline in the mixture from choking the air may turn your pipes permanently from chrome to purple. The chrome finish can't take that extra heat.

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